Surely every owner of at least a small summer cottage thought about building a gazebo. This small architectural form allows you to create the best conditions for relaxation, as well as the necessary coziness and comfort. Among all kinds of abundance of its various types, the most daring and modern is considered a multi-level structure with an open second floor. The article describes in detail how to independently build such a gazebo, and also describes all the subtleties of building a two-story structure.
Drawing creation
A detailed drawing is the first thing to start long before the construction of the gazebo begins. First of all, not only the harmony and proportionality of the entire structure, but also the correct calculation of the volumes of building materials depends on its details. This often does not require special knowledge and skills, since in the construction of small architectural forms it is permissible to do this schematically.
A correct drawing must describe:
- general plan of the site;
- the base of the structure and its shape;
- the shape of each side of the structure, including the roof;
- frame diagram;
- all load-bearing structures;
- position of window and entrance openings.
In addition, the correct project always carries information about the materials used, their characteristics and methods of fastening individual elements. At the same time, maximum scrupulousness at the planning stage allows you to take into account all the nuances, as well as to avoid all kinds of unforeseen difficulties.
Important! The main drawing, as well as additional images, must be performed on a scale relative to the future structure. This is the only way to correctly recreate the circuit in kind, without any errors and inaccuracies.
Necessary materials and tools
Almost any building materials intended for the construction of capital structures can be used to build a gazebo. However, the cheapest and easiest to process option is natural wood, while it allows you to create a fairly aesthetic design.
From wooden materials you will need:
- mounting rail;
- timber 100 × 100 mm (strapping, frame and overlap);
- timber 150 × 50 mm (rafter system);
- moisture resistant polished board;
- decorative railing grilles.
In addition, you will need perforated metal corners and plates, wood screws, anchors, as well as reinforcement and concrete mix of at least M200 brand. Concrete can be made both independently and purchased in finished form. It will also require roofing material or any other similar waterproofing material.
Of the tools for building, you need the following minimum:
- hammer;
- saw on wood;
- screwdriver a cross or a screwdriver;
- hammer drill or hammer drill;
- shovel;
- container for mixing and storage of concrete mix.
Site selection and preparation
A scrupulous selection of a place for a gazebo is one of the main requirements when creating a durability design that provides optimal comfort. That is why the remote part of the garden, located in the shade of tall tree-like vegetation, is considered the best place for a gazebo. If an artificial pond or fountain is equipped on the site, the gazebo should be located to the water body as quickly as possible. At the same time, the structure should harmoniously complement the territory of the garden, as well as all kinds of vegetation.
From a practical point of view, the optimal site for construction should be located on a small hill. This will avoid flooding the foundation during heavy rains or spring thaws. In addition, in order to avoid subsidence of the building, the place under the future structure should not be located on arable soils, otherwise it will be necessary to deepen the foundation to soil horizons that are not involved in economic activity.
The basic preparation of the territory for the construction of a gazebo is quite simple. First, the garden plot needs to be cleaned of all kinds of weeds, as well as other garbage, and then leveled. If the place for the future structure is on a hill, the arable soil layer should be removed if possible. After that, with the help of wooden pegs and a dense thread, you need to mark the base of the future structure.
Foundation laying
The foundation is laid relative to the area marked with pegs. To do this, create an even trench along its perimeter with a depth of at least 50 cm and a width of 30 cm. A formwork with a height of 15–20 cm is installed on top of it. In the future, reinforcement must be installed in the pit at the level of the formwork, and then pour the concrete mixture. After the mixture has hardened, the formwork can be dismantled and proceed to the next steps.
To save materials and money, the strip foundation can be replaced with concrete pillars. To do this, instead of a continuous structure around the perimeter of the marked base, 4-8 blanks for columns should be created, in which concrete mixture should be poured further.
Important! Concrete dries and gains strength for at least 25 days. Until this time, it is not recommended to erect walls or a frame, otherwise there is a high probability of violating its integrity.
Bottom harness and frame installation
The installation of the lower harness and the frame begin after the concrete mixture has completely solidified. For this, a wooden beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm should be laid on the perimeter of the foundation on each side. You can do this in two ways: overlap or flush with the adjacent side. In the first case, at the joints of the beams, it is necessary to make mutually intersecting grooves, in the second, the strapping is fastened together using mounting plates or corners. To the foundation, the structure is fixed with anchors or metal rods tightly driven into the foundation.
After fixing the harness, you can install the supporting beams. They are placed in the corner of each side, as well as at a distance of 50-100 cm, adhering to an ideal vertical of 90 °. Their height should correspond to the design ceiling height. A timber of 100 × 100 mm is used for a wooden frame, attached to its binding using metal corners and perforated plates. The latter are fixed so that the connection is made in the form of a bevel at an angle of 45 °.
Installation of a log for the floor and the upper trim of the first floor
As soon as the base is ready, it should, first of all, complete its binding. Apply for this bars of the same section - 100 × 100 mm. They are placed on the supporting beams from above and fixed with perforated corners and plates. Corner intersections of the strapping bars should be connected according to the groove method, for which it will be necessary to create vasimocontact cutouts on each of them. Additionally, the harness is reinforced with the help of elongated self-tapping screws or anchors.
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Ready frame begin to strengthen from the floor. To do this, it is strengthened with the help of the so-called lag. They are bars of 100 × 100 mm section, laid in one direction with a pitch of not more than 50 mm, relying on the harness. Complete the installation of the first floor by installing decorative railing grilles in the openings between the vertical bars. However, the frame on the inside as well as the outside can be sheathed with a board, clapboard or any other material.
The construction of the second floor
The construction of the upper floor of a two-story structure begins with the installation of the floor. To do this, between the two shortest sides, the bars are laid with a section of 100 × 100 mm, the pitch should not be more than 50 mm. They are fastened to the base with the help of anchors, additionally strengthening the place of the bundle with metal plates and corners. After that, roofing material or an alternative waterproofing material is laid on top of the ceiling. At the end of the installation around the perimeter of the structure, you need to fix the enclosing barrier with a height of about 50-100 cm, in which case decorative railings are considered the simplest solution.
Floor installation
The flooring is fixed on top of the lag, starting from the first floor and ending with the top. The cheapest option is a sanded board or special panels. To achieve the longest possible life of the coating, the floorboard is treated with moisture protective substances. At the same time, wood soaked with special antifungal drugs is used to cover the floors of the second floor.
Stairs
The installation of the stairs is considered the last and one of the most important stages in the construction of a two-tier structure. This object can be installed both inside the gazebo and outside. Moreover, the latter option is the most profitable. It not only allows you to create a comfortable width of the stairs and the height of the steps, but also makes it possible to avoid cluttering the internal space of the gazebo.
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Most often, wood or metal is used to build this facility. At the same time, metal structures are most preferable for external stairs. You can make a ladder of any complexity yourself, but it is recommended to purchase a finished structure consisting of several modules. This will greatly simplify its construction, as well as protect against all kinds of difficulties during further operation. In this case, it is recommended to pay attention to models with a step height of 17–25 cm, with other ranges the climb will be more difficult and not comfortable.
Roof system and roof
Since the design of this two-level gazebo provides an open upper floor, the installation of such a structure does not carry out roof installation. However, from late autumn to early spring, the structure must be protected from snow and excessive precipitation, otherwise the duration of its operation will decrease significantly.
They solve this problem by installing a temporary rafter system. Its basis is parallel bars (150 × 50 mm) laid on the railing with a pitch of 50 cm. To achieve the desired drainage of rainfall, on top of the lag they make a crate from the mounting rail with an inclination of at least 15 ° to one side. Any roofing material is fixed on top of such a crate, while the coating made of sheet metal (corrugated board or metal tile) is considered the most profitable and appropriate.
A gazebo with two levels is the best example of rational use of free space with maximum effect. Such a structure allows you to effectively divide the space, as well as create comfortable areas for all kinds of recreation. However, before its erection, it should be taken into account that open buildings are always subject to the maximum impact of precipitation, therefore their service life is several times shorter than that of indoor buildings.
